Harness Wrapping Technique

I quite unhappy the day someone mentioned my harnesses were not properly wrapped around the adjuster bar. They were installed that way for about a year and 1/2, and no one had ever mentioned it before. And even this person, who mentioned the problem with the shoulder harnesses, never mentioned the lap belts.
So, here's a quick 6-step listing on how to route the harnesses the proper way through the adjuster bar. Yes, it's true, that most places actually have a similar step-by-step listing in their catalog. But it may have been overlooked (as was the case with my belts).
Why care? You may ask. Well, supposedly, in harsh collisions, an improperly threaded belt could actually pull out of the adjuster bar enough and give you enough slack to hurt yourself. Not good!

START HERE!

Lay out your pieces in the correct way, paying attention to the position of the bolt-in attatchment versus the belt position. The steps are the same, whether you are attatching a bolt-in attatchment (shown), a snap-in attatchment, or doing a rollbar wrap.
In the pic, you see (from left to right), the bolt-in attatchment, the adjuster bar, and the belt. Not that the bolt-in or snap-in attatchment will prolly be 2" wide for a 3" wide belt.

Step 1

First comes the adjuster bar. Pay attention to which side of the adjuster you want "up" or "down". Not shown in the pic, the belt is lying face-up.

Step 2

Next, complete the first belt routing through the adjuster bar (there will be THREE of them!)

Step 3
Next, route through the attatchment hardware (bolt-in, snap-in) or route around the rollbar points.
Note that with the 2" hole in the bolt-in piece, the belt must be folded over to get it to fit. Most diagrams I've seen show both sides of the belt getting folded over. I think this is so that under load, the bolt-in attatchment won't saw through the single layer of material (if it was laid flat).
Hrmmm....too bad I took this pic on a bad example (only one side is folded over instead of both sides).
Take a moment and recheck the alignment of the attatchment hardware to the belt.

Step 4

Wrap the belt back through the adjuster bar. Check the length that you want from the adjuster bar to the attatchment hardware/rollbar. Now is the time to make these adjustments.

Step 5

Complete the wrapping through the adjuster bar. This is the second of three times through the bar.
At this point, make sure everything is pretty well tightened up, as it will make the next step easier.

Step 6

Re-route the belt end through the adjuster AGAIN. Yes again. Only don't run it back through BOTH ends of the adjuster bar. Whatever end of the adjuster bar the belt comes out of, route it back through the OTHER END. (See the pic, which should explain it better than words).
You are prolly looking at the amount of space between the belt and the adjuster bar and thinking this is silly. A method that works for me is to get one tip of the end of the belt started through. Then grab it with needlenose pliers, and pry (trying to pull straight with the pliers is too hard.)
It will go through (I didn't believe it at first either). And there you have it, a properly routed belt.

Finish!

Here's another pic of the routing - but close up, so you can see where the belt goes in and over all 3 times.

	START HERE! Lay out your pieces in the correct way, paying attention to the position of the bolt-in attatchment versus the belt position. The steps are the same, whether you are attatching a bolt-in attatchment (shown), a snap-in attatchment, or doing a rollbar wrap. In the pic, you see (from left to right), the bolt-in attatchment, the adjuster bar, and the belt. Not that the bolt-in or snap-in attatchment will prolly be 2" wide for a 3" wide belt.
	Step 1 First comes the adjuster bar. Pay attention to which side of the adjuster you want "up" or "down". Not shown in the pic, the belt is lying face-up.
	Step 2 Next, complete the first belt routing through the adjuster bar (there will be THREE of them!)
	Step 3 Next, route through the attatchment hardware (bolt-in, snap-in) or route around the rollbar points. Note that with the 2" hole in the bolt-in piece, the belt must be folded over to get it to fit. Most diagrams I've seen show both sides of the belt getting folded over. I think this is so that under load, the bolt-in attatchment won't saw through the single layer of material (if it was laid flat). Hrmmm....too bad I took this pic on a bad example (only one side is folded over instead of both sides). Take a moment and recheck the alignment of the attatchment hardware to the belt.
	Step 4 Wrap the belt back through the adjuster bar. Check the length that you want from the adjuster bar to the attatchment hardware/rollbar. Now is the time to make these adjustments.
	Step 5 Complete the wrapping through the adjuster bar. This is the second of three times through the bar. At this point, make sure everything is pretty well tightened up, as it will make the next step easier.
	Step 6 Re-route the belt end through the adjuster AGAIN. Yes again. Only don't run it back through BOTH ends of the adjuster bar. Whatever end of the adjuster bar the belt comes out of, route it back through the OTHER END. (See the pic, which should explain it better than words). You are prolly looking at the amount of space between the belt and the adjuster bar and thinking this is silly. A method that works for me is to get one tip of the end of the belt started through. Then grab it with needlenose pliers, and pry (trying to pull straight with the pliers is too hard.) It will go through (I didn't believe it at first either). And there you have it, a properly routed belt.
	Finish! Here's another pic of the routing - but close up, so you can see where the belt goes in and over all 3 times.